Showing posts with label New Zealand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Zealand. Show all posts

Thursday, 1 September 2016

GlowMaggots and Other Adventures...

"Lights out!" shouts the guide, as we glide down a river in a plastic tube through a cave. Suddenly, above us appears our own personal night sky, but instead of stars, the dots of lights above us are actually the bioluminescence of the thousands of glowworms living on the roof of the rock tunnel.

Just to give some context, we'll backtrack a little. Chris had found an advert for some black water rafting in a magazine while we were still down on South Island. We'd chatted about it a few times, and eventually decided we weren't going to do it - the combination of potentially tiny holes, cold water and money put us off. Until. We were sat in a lovely (albeit slightly bizarre) oversized barn, masquerading as a restaurant with beef casserole or beef casserole on the menu. A few fellow guests from our holiday park had joined us, and we were chatting about our trips so far when black water rafting came up. Two of them had done it that day, and said it was great. They also mentioned a website called bookme, which we hadn't heard of before, but has lots of discounts for stuff around NZ, and happened to have 54% off black water rafting the next day. With the reassurance that caving was a minimum, the water wasn't that cold and some rare free wifi, we were soon booked to go.

Due to another guest having what can only be described as a crisis of confidence part way through our first adventure, we ended up going twice, so the rest of this description is a bit of a blur of both trips!

After arriving at the office (yes, I do have my swimwear, towel and a spare pair of socks!), we were off to the changing rooms to be given probably the most attractive (note the sarcasm) clothing I have ever worn. A wet suit, jacket, wellies and some fantastic "cave pants", followed shortly by a full body harness and helmet, just to complete the look. I was less than comfortable, but ready for the first step - learning how to abseil (nailed it :P), then on to the abseil itself, 27m down into the cave - I was too excited and went first both times!

Once in the cave, we headed upstream for a while - the first time we did the ultimate trust test - holding hands, torches off, trusting Hannah, our guide to lead the way by the light of the glowworms. This was one of my favourite bits of the whole experience, and I normally hate not being able to see, but there was something pretty magical about it. The second time, the current was noticeably faster as it had rained all night, so we walked upstream with torches on, but stopped for a lovely chat from Rachel (our second guide) about glowworms (which are actual glow-maggots, they eventually turn into flies that can't eat, only survive for 3-4 days, and spend most of that time having sex.) followed by actually finding some glowworms, which was awesome, because we've seen the glow a few times, but never managed to find the creature itself. They look a lot like maggots really :P

After this, the rafting started. One at a time, we sat down into our inflated tyres that we'd carried upstream with us, and floated down the river, sometimes faster, sometimes slower, sometimes bouncing off the rocks like a water based bumper cars. At times we rafted in the dark watching the glowworms, at times with our torches on making sure we didn't hit too many rapids/rocks. Sometimes we went alone, and sometimes as a whole group together, laughing at each other bumping into rocks, bumping into each other, or falling out as the case may be. I was much better at staying in my tyre the second time, although the only time I actually fell out was on the first trip, when Hannah was just trying to help me stand up - luckily it was shallow enough that even when I was kneeling the water didn't come to my hips, and the whole thing just ended up in both of us in a fit of giggles.

On both trips we did a little bit of caving, although in slightly different parts of the cave. And by we, I mean Chris did. I have squeezed myself through small spaces before, and I know I can do it, and I know I don't enjoy it, so I decided I didn't need to have a go this time. Chris seemed to enjoy himself though, despite his previous reservations, and it was good fun watching his feet disappear through holes, particularly the one where he went downhill head first.

After all of the rafting excitement, we then had the less than appealing task of walking back upstream again, as we had rafted back past our exit point. With the strong current and a giant floating tyre that wanted very much to go downstream, it was hard going at times, and I was glad when we got to bits of rock and beach that we could walk along - even if it was just for a few metres. We also stopped for a hot squash and bit of chocolate to give us a sugar boost part way back, which gave us one last chance for torches off glowworm time!

Once back to our exit point, we then had the minor detail of climbing out of the 27m hole we had originally abseiled down into. Thankfully, there is a reasonably nice section of rock, which mostly slopes, and has plenty of foot and hand holes at good distances for climbing in wet suits and wellies (If a kid tried to climb like that at work, I'd laugh and send them back to change - not ideal!). After everyone has climbed out, we headed back to the glamorous changing rooms for a hot shower (Rachel gets top points for putting the showers on while we were getting our wet suits off so they were already warm when we got in!) and dressed before heading back to the office to have a hot soup, bread roll and a slideshow of pictures from the day.

Both days were fantastic and had different highlights, both our guides were brilliant, and we're so grateful to Kiwi Cave Rafting for giving us a second chance to finish the adventure - so glad we had a flexible plan with a spare day!!


Tuesday, 23 August 2016

Glaciers, lakes and pancakes

Apologies if the formatting of this blog isn't quite right - I'm writing it on my phone! Will check it when I get my laptop to free wifi :-)

The last few days have been a bit of a whirlwind of walking, hiking, snow, forests, and beaches... Here's a brief run down:

Fox Glacier
After a lovely lady in a national park gave us a weather update, we rescheduled our helihike to the day earlier, and what a great decision it was. Friday, just after lunch, we were kitted up and flying in beautiful sunshine up to a glacier - I don't know if we were more excited about helicopters or the glacier, but either way we were really excited! Pretty soon on our hike we were shown our first ice cave, with the statement of "it's pretty narrow", which half way through we discovered was the biggest understatement of the century, as we ended up lying on our back, sliding down the ice with just an inch of space between our faces and the ice - we both agreed we would never have gone in if we'd known, but we came out on such a high, very glad that we did go in!! The rest of the day didn't involve quite so much squeezing but did involve more ice caves, and lots of pretty pictures (to be added when I get my laptop to wifi!)

Lake Matheson
Also near Fox Glacier, this lake is a great one for taking those reflection photos that are iconic of New Zealand. Unfortunately the best time to take those photos is dawn or dusk, and we were certainly not up at dawn after the excitement of yesterday, but the views were stunning all the same!

Pancake Rocks
We headed to pancake rocks mostly because of the name, but also because it was the perfect driving stopping distance! A quick check in the information centre told us high tide was the best time and that was at 12.40, so we set off in search of some caves first, and we were not disappointed. As it's winter over here, we passed just four people all morning, and when we got to the caves, we were the only ones in there, so we could explore to our hearts content (which I was more keen on than Chris I think!). After getting as far as we could through the stalagmites and stalactites, we headed back to the pancakes, and watched the high tide slam around them, wearing them slowly away. Unfortunately no blow holes, but impressive all the same.

Lake Rotoiti
Another good driving distance, we stopped at this lake mostly based on one line in the Lonely Planet that said it had some nice walks. Another helpful lady in the information centre sent us up a hill with an "easy gradient" (if that's an easy gradient when I'm her age, I'm beyond pleased with myself!)that meandered in and out of the bushline as it climbed. We got up to the snowline, stopped for some lunch, and decided to keep going a bit - a decision that pleased Chris more than me, as I kept sinking in the snow! We made it up to a little hut that travellers can stay in, and turned around - the walk back down was much faster!

The Ferry
The next day we were in Picton, a little town consisting mostly of hostels, motels and hotels to house the travellers getting off the ferry from the North Island. We wandered along the coast line for a little bit, before heading back to the campervan to get on the ferry. On the ferry, we watched the impressive coastline until it was out of sight, and then planned our route round the North Island, which will include hobbits, thermal areas, glowworms and more! Excitement!

Sunday, 21 August 2016

Avalanche Peak Chat

Our walk in Arthur's Pass National Park, in the form of dialogue excerpts.

"Hey, let's go on this 6-8 hour walk up the side of the mountain and back down"
...
"Before I give you that guide, I have to ask... Do you have crampons and ice axes?"
...
"We've not had much snow this winter, so you should be able to get up to the edge of the bush line and back down, but stick to the paths and be sensible."
...
"You know how we said we were going up the side of the mountain? I didn't think it would be this much up."
...
"oo there's snow!" "oo there's a pretty view!" "oo more snow" "oo another pretty view" "oo the snow is getting deeper"
...
"Getting up this track is pretty slippy, but I think getting down will be even worse. But that's a problem for after a cheese sandwich."
...
"10/10 lunch spot"
...
"There's no snow on the rock ledges, let's climb higher"
...
"That's the top just there... oh wait..."
...
"We're almost at the edge of the bush line...oh wait..."
...
"I don't think the views will get any better if we climb any higher."
...
"Yeah, I was going to suggest a controlled slide down."
...
"These bridges were near the start, right?"


...
"I'm bored of going downhill"
...
"You know how we were going to climb up to that waterfall afterwards. I don't think I can be bothered."
...
"Those bridges weren't near the start."
...
"Yay, the bottom. Let's just have a kitkat"
...
"You should definitely go to the waterfall viewing platform, it's only 20 minutes!"
...
"You know when I said I couldn't be bothered to climb to the waterfall. I was right."
...

"Ok. It was worth it."


Quake City

Walking into Christchurch didn't feel like walking into a city centre. No big tall skyscrapers, no massive branded shops that are in every city in the world; There's corners without coffee shops, and there's barely a road anywhere without road-works on. We wandered and wondered where all the people were, why it was so quiet, why the tram goes round on a tiny loop to nowhere, desperate for passengers to give it some purpose. It wasn't until we sat down in Cathedral Square, in front of a derelict old cathedral that we realised the earthquake of five years ago was the answer to all of our questions, and the reason that there is a definite lack of identity in the middle of the second largest city New Zealand.



Christchurch is desperately trying to find itself again, after being literally shaken to the ground. Beautiful buildings that once stood are now piles of rubble, in an area waiting for a new building. New buildings have developed, and are bright shining beacons of the future in a world that has few reminders of the past. Office blocks are growing, museums have found new homes (or been created from the events themselves - Quake City). Hotels are appearing again, and tourists are slowly making their way back to a city (and wider area) that desperately needs their income. There's one lonely food cart on Cathedral Square (who sells some decent French Fries - try the chilli mayo!), and a city mall (Re:Start) made from shipping containers, which hopefully isn't temporary, because it is a great visual representation of the incredible things we can do in the face of adversity. A new memorial is being created by the river bank, to all of those who lost their lives during the quakes. Christchurch is rebuilding itself.



And amidst all of this is the cathedral, part standing by itself, part being held up by scaffolding, and part demolished, fenced all around, with no access to a once proud structure which is now clearly not safe to enter. Due to disagreements about who should pay for the next step, it stands alone in the city, the one last remnant of 22nd February 2011. One last reminder to those who lived through it and are trying to piece their lives back together, to the tourists who only saw what happened on the TV and can't quite picture it (because that kind of thing doesn't happen to you, right?), and to those who have simply forgotten it happened, and need to remember the reason why Christchurch still isn't quite up to full strength.